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Discovering Begur: Medieval charm and crystal-clear coves in Costa Brava

Located in the heart of Costa Brava, Begur is a treasure. It’s a historic town with medieval and colonial charm surrounded by mountains that hide some of the Costa Brava’s most crystal-clear coves.

Although the town of Begur isn’t in front of the sea, it sits close to it, around 2 km from the coastline. On the emerald coves, you can spend the day exploring the seabedsunbathinghiking the coastal paths in the area, or kayaking to hidden caves. Back on dry land, you’ll find exquisite foodlovely boutiques, and Begur’s impressive medieval castle.

Strategically nestled in the heart of Costa Brava, Begur is a perfect base to explore the rest of the region. Also, it is an easy day trip or an ideal weekend away if you’re travelling to Barcelona. 

So, ready to discover things to do, places to stay, and gastronomic delights in this charming village and its surroundings? Keep scrolling!

* Post written for the first time in July 2023 and updated in May 2024.

A person walking around Begur's historic centre
Strolling through the streets of Begur

Things to do in Begur, Costa Brava

Hike the Camí de Ronda and snorkel at the coves

Follow the various coastal footpaths, known as Camí de Ronda, in Begur and walk through pinewoods to find beautiful emerald coves and lookouts with breathtaking panorama views.

Aiguablava – Sa Tuna – Aiguafreda

↔️ Distance: 7.2 km
⬆️ Elevation gain: 412 m
🔃 Circular? No
🧭 Wikiloc track

This coastal path unwinds through the cliffs characterising Begur’s coast. So, expect some steep hills!

After leaving Aiguablava, you’ll find two small coves, Cala Maralet and Platja de Fornells, located in the beautiful fishing district Fornells, which has a small port.

Continue your journey along the coast, shaded by the pine trees, until you reach the 50 stairs leading down to Platja Fonda. This serene beach, cradled by cliffs, offers a perfect respite for a rest, a refreshing swim, or a light snack.

Then, the path ascends through residential areas, culminating at the hill Puig de sa Guàrdia. The views from here are incredible!

Afterwards comes El Semàfor de Begur, a lighthouse from 1891 currently disused. The building itself isn’t wowing, but the views are!

After walking through a pine forest for a short time, you’ll find this path’s treasure: Sa Tuna. The blue water and the colourful houses make this cove iconic. If you have your snorkel kit, don’t forget to explore the sea bed! The cove’s right side is rocky and has many caves where it’s easy to spot marine life.

Also, it’s worth exploring Sa Tuna’s narrow streets and marvelling at all the beautiful houses!

The village of Sa Tuna, in Begur
Sa Tuna

The last part of the path passes by one more cove, Cala Ses Vaques, until finally reaching Aiguafreda.

As this hike is not circular, you’ll have to get back following the same path. If you’re staying in Begur, you can also take the shuttle bus from Sa Tuna back to the village.

When we arrived in Begur, we stopped to enjoy ice cream. We loved the selection at L’Enxaneta, near the castle.

Punta de la Creu – Sa Riera – Platja del Racó

↔️ Distance: 3 km
⬆️ Elevation gain: 110 m
🔃 Circular? No
🧭 Wikiloc track

If the other hike was more about cliffs and secluded coves, this one is more about sandy beaches.

It starts in Punta de la Creu, a cliff area with beautiful views protected as a marine reserve. The path unwinds through pine forests, going up and down the cliffs until reaching Cala s’Antiga. This secluded sandy cove is perfect for a dip and a break.

As you ascend some stairs and walk a hundred more metres, you’ll be greeted by Begur’s biggest beach, Platja de Sa Riera.

The next jewel on this hike is Platja de l’Illa Roja. You’ll first pass it from above, and once you get to a crossroad, you’ll have to take the path that descends to the beach to get there. We highly recommend it!

L’Illa Roja, translated as Red Island, gets its name from the red rocky island on the sand. The cool thing is that depending on the tide, you can find Illa Roja attached to the land or isolated, almost “floating” near the beach.

Platja de l'Illa Roja in Begur, Costa Brava
Platja de l’Illa Roja

The beach is surrounded by high cliffs and scenic rock formations. It’s one of our favourites in Costa Brava! This beach is nudist-friendly, especially the area towards the end of it.

The hike’s destination is only 200 m from this beach. Platja del Racó is a long sandy beach that extends all the way to L’Estartit! In fact, this is the second most extensive beach here in Costa Brava.

A person hiking the Camí de Ronda in Begur
Camí de Ronda coastal path

Wander through the streets of the historic centre

If you’re in Begur, don’t head only to the beach and forget to visit the village. Begur’s historic centre is a maze of narrow streets with stone houses, local shops, and medieval charm.

The coastal village has cultural links to Cuba, as many Begurencs (people from Begur) emigrated to Cuba during the 19th century. Those who made a considerable fortune came back and built ostentatious colonial-style homes in Begur’s centre, so you’ll feel and see the colonial influence when walking around.

Here’s a list of the colonial houses you can find in Begur. If you’re up for a unique experience, you can spend the night in one of them! Hotel Aiguaclara is a stylish hotel set in a colonial-style mansion from 1866, and La Indiana de Begur is a boutique hotel also in a colonial house. We haven’t stayed in any of them yet, but after reading the reviews and seeing the building’s facade, we can’t wait to go!

The bond is so strong with Cuba that, every September, people in Begur celebrate the Fira d’Indians. It’s a 3-day festival where overseas products, Caribbean-style rhythms, and Habaneras are the main protagonists.

Other historical landmarks to see while walking in the centre are the 16th-century defensive towers, built by locals to protect themselves against pirate attacks, and the church of Sant Pere, built in the Gothic style.

One of the prettiest streets in Begur
Begur’s historic centre

Explore the incredible seabed

The Begur area has around 20 km of coast and 8 beautiful coves that are very different from one another. This means there is plenty of marine life and seabed to discover!

For snorkelling, you can either explore the rocky sections of the coves on your own or join a guide. Maui from Anemone Tours is a local who knows the coast of Begur like the palm of his hand, so if you’re up for discovering great snorkelling spots, you can’t go wrong with him!

Update: Maui has temporarily stopped offering snorkelling tours. If you’re looking for a guided snorkelling experience, you can check Begur Dive.

If you prefer diving, you can sign up for a guided dive with Sa Barraca Water House. The diving centre is located near Ses Negres, a protected marine reserve, so aquatic life is guaranteed!

Starfish spotted while diving in Costa Brava
A cool starfish we saw when diving in Begur

Soak up the views from Begur’s medieval castle

Begur is protected by a medieval castle, which stands proudly on a hill. Built in the 11th century, it consists only of the remains of its outer walls today. However, it makes for a nice hike, and the views are amazing!

You can spot the Medes Islands, the Cap de Creus, Costa Brava’s countryside, and even the Pyrenees from there!

Views of Begur from a lookout
Views of Begur and its surroundings from the town’s castle

Enjoy music at Begur Music Festival

If you’re in Begur from the 28th of July to the 13th of August, you can enjoy several open-air concerts in the village.

The music played in the Festival de Begur is diverse, from alternative rock artists to pop ones, passing by folk and jazz musicians, thus making it an interesting stop for any music lover!

Kayak, paddle, or sail Begur’s coastline

If you love the beach but can’t stand laying in a towel for several hours, this one is for you!

Rent a SUP at Sa Barraca or a kayak at Sa Blava and discover Begur from a unique perspective. Stop whenever you please for a dip at sea and keep paddling to explore the many caves and coves in Begur. We always use Wikiloc to browse for routes and choose the one more suitable to our level and the distance we want to paddle.

Another option is to rent a boat or join a boat tour. Aiguablava Boats rents boats with and without a license and offers boat excursions with professional skippers. Ready to discover hidden caves along the coast and chill on the boat’s deck?

A person paddling in Sa Tuna
SUP in Sa Tuna

Experience sunrise over one of Begur’s coves

Want to start your day with an absolute blast? Set the alarm early and watch the sunrise from the sea.

We understand that early mornings can be a challenge, but trust us, this is a rare opportunity you won’t want to miss. It’s a nature show reserved only for the early risers!

Where to eat in Begur: A guide to the best food finds

Although Begur isn’t a big town, there are many incredible places to eat.

When we were there, we had a fantastic dinner at Casa Juanita. The place is a culinary haven for seafood enthusiasts! They serve fresh Mediterranean fish and seafood prepared on the BBQ with tomatoes, onions, and potatoes. In addition to the wood-fired fish, the octopus and the fried sand eels are to die for! 

If you fancy a brunch or speciality coffee, head to Fitzroy Café. There, you’ll find all kinds of coffee, kombuchas, sandwiches, sweets, and delicious banana pancakes.

Taverna Son Molas is an excellent place for a romantic night out or a dinner with friends when you want to get fancy. You’ll enjoy creative tapas and little plates with beautiful views of Begur’s castle.

Hungry after a morning at the beach and looking for an informal meal? You have plenty of options depending on what you’re craving for! Those are our favourites:

  • La Escalopa: German restaurant famous for its goulash and schnitzel. But also, for its friendly and warm host!
  • L’autèntic: The place to go for simple dishes such as burgers, toasts, or crepes.
  • Sa Pizza: Super friendly staff that makes the best pizzas for takeaway in Begur.
  • Bar la Janethe: A quiet place with plenty of outdoor seating serving Colombian dishes, sandwiches, tapas, burgers, and rice dishes.

Where to sleep in Begur

The accommodation options in Begur are far from short! This coastal town offers plenty of options, both in the city centre and the beautiful coves.

La Bionda Hotel and Hostalet de Begur are wonderful options if you are looking for an adult-only place to travel with your partner. Besides, these two boutique hotels are located in the city centre, close to shops and restaurants.

If you prefer the soothing sound of waves over the bustling city, Hotel Sa Tuna and Hotel Aigua Blava are your best bet. These hotels, located in Begur’s most picturesque coves, offer a serene escape from the city life.

For those seeking an excellent value for money, the family-run Hostalet dels Indians or the beach hotel Hostal Sa Rascassa are great choices.

Travelling with your family or friends, and would rather stay in an apartment? You can’t go wrong by choosing Cap Sa Sal – Sa Roca 2 (located in Aiguafreda cove, up to 4 people), Sa Riera Beach (located in Sa Riera cove, up to 5 people), or Noor Apartamento (located in the city centre, up to 4 people).

For bigger groups (up to 8 people), two incredible options are Casa Alegria Costa Brava in the city centre and Sa Tuna Villa CEMA near Sa Tuna Cove.

La Bionda Hotel in Begur, Costa Brava
La Bionda Hotel

When is the best time to go to Begur

During the summer months, the city of Begur comes alive. People swim at the beach, eat and drink on the terraces, and walk around the historic streets. That’s why May to September is a great time to come here.

However, good weather also means more crowds. If possible, we recommend avoiding August as it’s the most crowded month, and it might even be too hot during the day to take a walk.

To us, May, June, and September are the best months as they are a bit quieter and not that hot.

If you’re coming mainly to hike the Camí de Ronda, you can do so all year round. We’d avoid July and August, as it’s too hot to hike. Lean more towards spring and autumn, when temperatures are pleasant, and you could even swim. If you come in the low season, you’ll find lower accommodation rates and more tranquillity.

Boats anchored in Sa Tuna

How to move around Begur

If you’re travelling by car, you’ll find several parking lots in Begur and on the beaches.

However, the parking lots on the beaches are small, get really busy (especially in high season), and are expensive (3€ for 1h!!!). Instead, we recommend taking the shuttle bus from Begur to the coves. You’ll save money (it only costs 1€), headaches, and time.

The service runs throughout the day and is operated by a bus. It covers the three main beach areas: Sa Riera, Sa Tuna, and Aiguablava.

If you don’t have a car, walking from the town centre to the coves is an option, although it’s pretty far and the path is very hilly. We recommend taking the bus mentioned before.

How to get to Begur from Barcelona

Begur is 133 km away from Barcelona, making it a good destination for either a day trip or a weekend trip if you want to escape the hustle and bustle of the capital.

So, how can you get there?

🚗 By car

The fastest way is by car. From Barcelona, you need to drive 1 h 30 min to get to Begur. The village has several established parking lots, some free and some paid.

🚎 By bus

If you don’t have a car, no worries! Public transport runs from Barcelona to Begur.

A direct bus from Estació del Nord (Barcelona) takes 2 h 20 mins to get to Begur. So, it’s the easiest and fastest option to reach this village from the Catalan capital.

In summer, this bus departs every 2 hours and costs around 22 € one way. In winter, the frequency drops to 2 or 3 buses per day.

🚊 By train

Another option, although less comfortable and slower than the bus, is to go by train.

The train doesn’t reach Begur, so you must stop in Girona. The high-speed train from Barcelona takes 38 minutes to get to Girona. Once there, you can take a bus to Begur. There’s only one bus a day, in the afternoon.

The total travel time is 2 h and 48 min.

🚐 Join a guided tour

If you only want a day trip to Costa Brava, joining a guided tour is one of the most comfy and stress-free options. We suggest a tour with a local guide to discover three beautiful villages in Costa Brava (Calella de Palafrugell, Begur, and Pals).

The tour starts in Girona, so you’ll have to get the high-speed train from Sants station in Barcelona (total travel time: 38 min).

How to get to Begur from Girona

🚗 By car

The fastest way is by car because it only takes 53 min to drive from Girona to Begur. The village has several established parking lots, some free and some paid.

🚎 By bus

If you don’t have a car, no worries! Public transport runs from Girona to Begur.

Several buses a day link the two locations, although only one is direct and leaves Girona at 5:15 pm. Take a look at the bus combinations and schedules here. The journey takes between 1 h 20 min to 1 h 50 min.

🚐 Join a guided tour

If you’re in Girona and only want a day trip to Costa Brava, joining a guided tour is the most comfy and stress-free option.

The tour we suggest will allow you to discover three beautiful villages in Costa Brava (Calella de Palafrugell, Begur, and Pals) with a local guide, making it an ideal option to discover this coastal region without planning anything!

Daily life in Begur's coves

We hope that this guide has encouraged you to discover Begur and its beautiful beaches. If you do go, tell us which ones were your favourites!


More things to do in Costa Brava

We’ve written several posts with adventures to do in the area. Here are some suggestions:

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Itinerary review

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